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One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism,

One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

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One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables



One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

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'The wall was the ambition, the style became the obsession.' In the autumn of 1982, a single stone fell from high on the south face of Annapurna and struck Alex MacIntyre on the head, killing him instantly and robbing the climbing world of one of its greatest talents. Although only twenty-eight years old, Alex was already one of the leading figures of British mountaineering's most successful era. His ascents included hard new routes on Himalayan giants like Dhaulagiri and Changabang and a glittering record of firsts in the Alps and Andes. Yet how Alex climbed was as important as what he climbed. He was a mountaineering prophet, sharing with a handful of contemporaries - including his climbing partner Voytek Kurtyka - the vision of a purer form of alpinism on the world's highest peaks. One Day As A Tiger, John Porter's revelatory and poignant memoir of his friend Alex MacIntyre, shows mountaineering at its extraordinary best and tragic worst - and draws an unforgettable picture of a dazzling, argumentative and exuberant legend.

One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

  • Amazon Sales Rank: #782257 in eBooks
  • Published on: 2014-09-01
  • Released on: 2014-09-01
  • Format: Kindle eBook
One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

Review 'One Day As A Tiger gets at truths that very few biographies of mountaineers have touched. That Porter waited three decades to tell the story of his lost comrade no doubt accounts for much of the wisdom and power of this remarkable book.' (David Roberts, Judge, Banff Mountain Book Festival). 'Porter's writing is uncluttered and effortless ... capturing an extraordinary time when alpinism was dangerous and rebellious. I wholeheartedly recommend this excellent book.' (Ian Parnell, Climb Magazine). 'This book, which is full of humour and anecdotes, is written with exceptional liveliness. It is among the great books of alpinism.' (Vertical Magazine). 'A fine and intelligent book.' (Daily Mail). 'A book on climbing both humorous and perceptive, as close to the essence of our life as you can get.' (Doug Scott). 'One of the most intelligent, closely observed and engaging books ever written about mountaineering.' (David Pickford, Climb Magazine). 'A meticulously-researched history of a generation of climbers so fuelled by ambition and adrenalin that they came close to climbing themselves into extinction.' (Bernadette McDonald, Author of Freedom Climbers). 'Sid Vicious sang "Regrets, I've had a few, but then again, too few to mention." One of my greatest regrets is never having the chance to meet Alex MacIntyre. He was a true inspiration. In One Day As A Tiger, John Porter skilfully and eloquently fills the gaps and answers the questions about a time and a style in British mountaineering that were as refreshing as punk rock was to music in the 1970s.' (Nick Bullock). 'One Day As A Tiger is a brilliant read on so many different levels; a vivid and perceptive biography of one of the most talented and innovative climbers of his generation, but going much further to unveil a forgotten story which encompasses the breathtaking confidence of the anarchic and dynamic climbing culture that grew up during the cold war on both sides of the Iron Curtain.' (Chris Bonington). 'I won't beat about the bush: if there's just one climbing biography you should read this year, this is it.' (Steve Long, The Professional Mountaineer magazine).

About the Author John Porter was born in Massachusetts and he started climbing at the age of twelve, serving his apprenticeship in the White Mountains, Rockies, Cascades and Yosemite. He moved to the UK in the early 1970s to do postgraduate work at Leeds University where he joined a team of climbers dedicated to clean ethics, alpine-style and the fostering of international partnerships. Ascents of the North Face of Koh-i-Bandaka (1977) and the south face of Changabang (1978) with Alex MacIntyre and Polish friends were achieved in the middle of the cold war. Other climbs include lightweight attempts of the west ridge of Everest in winter, the north-west ridge of K2, the east face of Sepu Kangri, first ascents of Chong Kundam I and V in the Eastern Karakoram, and many other notable climbs around the world over a period of fifty-five years. In 1980 he founded the Kendal Mountain Festival with Brian Hall and Jim Curran, and in 2011 he and Brian founded the online adventure film website SteepEdge. John lives in the Cumbrian Lake District working as a consultant in the energy sector. He is a vice president of the Alpine Club and has previously been a vice president of the British Mountaineering Council and secretary to the Mountain Heritage Trust.


One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

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Most helpful customer reviews

5 of 5 people found the following review helpful. As good as it gets By Al Burgess I just read this book on a flight from Manchester to Las Vegas, every word. I know the author well and the subject matter only a little less so. John must have kept very detailed journals during his trips and also interviewed many of the people who knew Alex because some of the incidents in which I was involved I had conveniently forgotten. His writing style reflects not only a master of his craft but a sense of history of the period and the importance of the changing style of expedition climbing, especially compared to the mass guiding and hauling of clients up peaks such as Everest nowadays. I recommend that ever wannabe mountaineer guided on high peaks read this book. It will make everything clear. It is not only the nail biting detail of hard climbing and often sketchy travel methods that make this book important, but the intimate detail with which the author describes and paints the picture of groups of friends and fellow climbers and how they related, interacted and made deep sacrifices and commitments to their sport. I predict this book will win awards and be discussed with some animation. Go buy it. Al Burgess(now a climbing geyser)

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful. A nice tribute to a friend, but not necessarily a great book By Kit M After reading "Freedom Climbers," Alex MacIntyre was the "extra" alpinist that remained in my memory. As he was described in that book, his personality and style had an almost Monty Python-esque appeal, and I needed to know more. I purchased this book immediately after I found it despite its high price (especially considering I got a digital copy).I can appreciate that the author was a friend and did not try to turn this into an imitation of Alex's writing style or into a straight biography, but the narrative of it was all over the place and difficult to follow. The photos at the end are extraordinary, and there were some new things I learned, of course, including things about my favorite alpinist from "Freedom Climbers," Voytek, but not enough to completely redeem this from its flaws. Had I not spent so much money on it, it would have been a "did-not-finish" book, or at least I would not have pushed so hard to finish it as quickly as I have.

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful. A welcome addition and variation in mountaineering literature By Aglane Porter has detailed the short career of Alex MacIntyre in the course of a rich narrative presenting truly transitional years in climbing the greater ranges. The style leaps about somewhat, which bothered me at first; on reflection I think it suits the needs of writing history, personal narrative, biographical accounting, and more. I was delighted by the many tidbits of telling quotations, aphorisms even, of climbers familiar and not. That the story pretty much begins with the latter years of cold-war climbing with all that entails of international cooperation and shrewd subversion of official norms gives it a sharp edge. That Porter recounts the good and the bad of great men and Alpine Club bureaucracy with a tart tongue but overall balance should be a lesson to all of us who fume against those who have, or try to have, power over climbers. There's also what is for me an undefinable welcome respite from the endless super-heroic rhetoric of too much mountaineering lit. Complex thumbnails of Bonington and others is a plus; MacIntyre comes out of it a man of strengths and quirks, complex in all of his life, not just as a climber. It's a more than welcome variation in the past generation of such books, with just the right amount of modesty on Porter's part. The Banff Festival judges chose well this time.

See all 6 customer reviews... One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables


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One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables
One Day as a Tiger: Alex MacIntyre and the birth of light and fast alpinism, by John Porter, Stephen Venables

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